Handling: Balled and Burlaped (B&B) Trees handle well so long as you protect the trunk and ball and keep the ball moist. The easiest way to move them is with a tractor – but a wheelbarrow, or handcart can work well.Rolling them on the ground or out of your pickup with a plank – with one person pushing the ball – and another holding the head of the tree is an easy way to get them positioned.
Placing: We recommend placing the tree where you think you want to plant it – and temporarily blocking it up so that it stays vertical.Stand back and take a look, and if practical wait a day and look again.This helps to insure that when you do plant the tree – it is where you want it.Also, trees have a front and a back so to speak, like a Christmas tree.By turning the tree in position you can insure that you get the tree facing the right direction.
Digging the hole: Once you have the tree where you want it, roll it away and dig your hole.When the tree is planted you want to have the crown of the tree (the very top of the ball) a little proud of the adjacent soil – say an inch or two. Planting a tree too deep can kill it.You want to protect the tree crown from having standing water against the tree.Loosen the soil so that the roots have loose soil to grow into.There are many different opinions about using the existing soil vs. importing select material…in our area usually the existing soil is fine. With the tree placed in the hole, carefully remove the burlap and wire basket. Tamp the soil around the ball firmly.Leave a ring of soil around the tree out 6’’or so from the edge of the ball so as to create a basin for watering approximately 3’ in diameter.
In poorly drained, compacted clay soils, drainage must be provided. Before planting the tree, test the drainage of the planting hole by poring a few gallons of water in the bottom. If the water hasn’t soaked in after an hour, there probably is a drainage problem. Near a slope, small drains may be able to run water to some lower point. On level ground, planting the tree on a slight mound may be necessary to get the root system out of the saturated soil. Staking: Staking can be an expensive operation…if you plant your tree firmly – and keep an eye on it watching that it stays plumb – you can often avoid staking.If you do stake – 3 stakes are the best with loose fitting straps available at your local garden center. Mulching: Studies have shown that wood-chip mulch or bark-dust can nearly double the growth rate in the first few years after planting. A circle of mulch should be placed around every newly planted tree to conserve soil moisture and moderate soil temperatures. The mulch should cover an area approx 2 feet wider than the tree ball, and should be 2-3 inches deep. Always keep grass from growing in the mulching area.Round-Up spray or hand weeding work well for this – don’t damage the trunk of the tree. Watering: Proper watering is the single most important aspect of maintenance of transplanted trees. It is important to keep your tree moist and watered regularly for the first year.By the second and third years the roots will have grown so that you will not have to water as much. The reduced root system of the newly transplanted tree is concentrated in a small soil volume with very little water available to it. Regular watering will be necessary. It is also easy to overwater if the planting site is poorly drained. In the first few months after a tree is planted, a tree draws most of its moisture from the roots within the root ball. The root ball can dry out in a few days, though the surrounding soils remain moist. Watch the leaves – they will tell you when to water.During the warm summer months you will need to deep water deeply at least once per week for the first year. By far the most common cause of tree failure is lack of water during the growing season. The rootball needs be thoroughly soaked by filling the basin or drip irrigation. The second most common cause of problems is the tree is too much water – water should not pond around the tree for prolonged periods. Pruning: Keep broken and dead branches pruned back. You can prune a tree all during the year – it is just easier to prune without the leaves so that you can more easily see the branch structure. Fertilizing: A low nitrogen high trace element fertilizer – similar to Rhododendron Fertilizer applied at the rate of a standard Tuna Can per tree works well.Sprinkle the fertilizer around the base of the tree over the top of the ball – try and keep it away from the tree trunk itself.You can apply it the first of April and again the first of June for the first few years.Another important part of getting your trees to grow is to keep grass away from the tree trunk in approx a 4’ circle – mulched with bark dust – see paragraph above. Warranty:
Our trees are warranted to be true to name and in good healthy condition when they leave the Nursery. No other warranty is implied.